Exploring the Valleys of Upper Svaneti

The day’s trail offers an extraordinary journey through two picturesque valleys of Upper Svaneti. It combines panoramic views, ancient history, and serene natural beauty. Surprisingly untouched by heavy tourist traffic, this route promises a truly immersive experience.

The Journey to Baki Pass
The adventure begins with a challenging yet rewarding 1,000m ascent to Baki Pass (2,430m). At the summit, you’ll find the ruins of an 11th-century church and breathtaking vistas of the Enguri River Valley, the Svaneti Ridge, and the mighty glaciers of Mount Ushba.

Mount Ushba: A Sight to Behold
From the pass, the dramatic twin peaks of Mount Ushba rise sharply, towering two vertical kilometers above the glacier. Known as the Matterhorn of the Caucasus for its striking silhouette and the Disaster Mountain for its climbing challenges, it also holds the mystique of being called the Coven of Witches by locals.

Descent into Mazeri Valley
The trail then descends 800m through a tranquil fir forest to Mazeri Valley. Crossing Dolra village via a charming bridge, you’ll enter the wide, open valley at the base of Mount Ushba.

A Warm Welcome in Mazeri
The day concludes with the warm hospitality of Mazeri’s villagers, where a hearty dinner awaits—a perfect ending to a day filled with awe-inspiring landscapes and cultural treasures.

Trekking to Shdugra Waterfall and Beyond

Distance: 11km
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation Gain: 900m

The day begins with a hearty breakfast at the guesthouse before setting out on a trail that winds through a shady, ancient conifer forest. Following the Dolra River upstream, the sound of rushing water accompanies us as we journey deeper into this pristine wilderness.

A Warm Welcome and Local Delights
After a couple of hours, we cross the river via a wooden bridge, passing the humble wooden huts of the local border guards. Here, we’re often greeted with warm smiles and, on occasion, the gift of freshly made khachapuri, Georgia’s iconic cheese-filled flatbread.

The Mighty Shdugra Waterfall
The trail leads us to the base of Georgia’s tallest waterfall, the Shdugra Waterfall, where an incredible 100-meter cascade leaves trekkers in awe. While most visitors turn back here, we take on the challenge of continuing uphill for a few more hours, reaching the very top of the falls. From this dramatic perch, we stand beside the roaring stream as it plunges into the depths below.

Tribute to Climbers and Ushba’s Hidden Side
Our hike continues to a poignant monument dedicated to climbers who lost their lives attempting Mount Ushba. A few hundred meters further along, a secluded vantage point offers a rare and spectacular view of Ushba’s reverse side, complete with its glacier, an imposing icefall, and the ridgeline of the normal climbing route.

Horseback Return to Relaxation
The day ends with a fun and leisurely horseback ride back to the hotel. No prior riding experience is needed, making it an enjoyable way to save our legs from the final 6km and 300 meters of descent. This unique experience perfectly caps off a day of adventure, natural beauty, and cultural connection.

High Peaks, Hidden Hamlets, and Svaneti’s Iconic Cuisine

Distance: 15km
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation Gain: 700m

The day begins with warm farewells to our gracious hosts before embarking on an exhilarating journey deeper into the heart of Svaneti.

A Scenic Ride to Koruldi Lakes
A short 40-minute 4×4 minivan ride takes us to Mestia, the cultural and administrative hub of Svaneti. Continuing past the village, we ascend an adventurous dirt track, climbing 1,300 vertical meters to the stunning Koruldi Lakes, nestled at 2,750m. Here, the landscape opens up to a jaw-dropping 360° panorama of the Svaneti Range, a photographer’s dream.

Climbing to Koruldi Ridge
The trek begins with a steady climb of 600 meters over 2–2.5 hours to the narrow Koruldi Ridge. From this lofty vantage point, enjoy unrivalled views of the formidable Mount Ushba and the icy expanse of the Chalaadi Glacier, a scene as breathtaking as any in the Alps.

Soaring Peaks and Guli Pass
Ascending further to 3,300m, we’re rewarded with expansive vistas of the Great Caucasus and Svaneti ranges. Turning south, the trail descends to Guli Pass, a popular route for hikers journeying between Mazeri and Mestia. Onward to Guli Peak (2,924m), the Enguri Valley stretches out below in a stunning display of natural beauty.

Through Forests and Historic Villages
The path winds through dense forests, leading to Latali, a charming hamlet adorned with Svaneti’s iconic stone towers. These time-weathered villages provide a glimpse into traditional life, where history and culture thrive in harmony with nature.

A Culinary Finale in Lenjeri
The hike concludes in the picturesque village of Lenjeri, near Mestia. Here, we celebrate with a feast at a family-run restaurant, cherished through generations. Indulge in rustic yet refined Svan cuisine, including millet flatbread and kubdari, a succulent meat pie that captures the essence of Svaneti’s culinary traditions.

This unforgettable day weaves together breathtaking landscapes, cultural exploration, and delectable flavours, immersing you in the soul of Svaneti.

Rest and Cultural Immersion in Mestia

After the physical challenges of yesterday’s hike, today is a chance to unwind and immerse ourselves in the rich history and culture of Mestia, the vibrant heart of Svaneti.

Morning in Mestia’s Cafes
Start the day with a leisurely morning, sipping coffee in Mestia’s lively cafes while soaking in the mountain town’s unique charm. The relaxed atmosphere is the perfect way to recharge.

Exploring the Svaneti Museum
Dive into the fascinating history of the region at the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography. This treasure trove of cultural artefacts showcases ancient manuscripts, medieval icons, and unique tools that paint a vivid picture of life in Svaneti across centuries.

Discovering the Iconic Svan Towers
The iconic Svan towers, scattered throughout the region, are a testament to the ingenuity of medieval defensive architecture. A visit to the Margiani Tower offers an especially immersive experience, revealing what life was like within these ancient fortified dwellings.

Savouring Local Delicacies
As we stroll through the quaint streets of Mestia, the aroma of freshly baked khachapuri and other local delicacies beckons. Cosy bakeries and family-run eateries provide an authentic taste of Svaneti’s culinary traditions.

This restful day is a perfect balance of relaxation, cultural discovery, and culinary delights, leaving you recharged and ready for the next adventure.

Mesmerizing Views and Medieval Marvels

Distance: 10km
Elevation Gain: 300m
Elevation Loss: 770m

The day begins with a scenic ascent as a chairlift and gondola whisk us from Mestia to Zuruldi Ridge at 2,300m. Rising 900m above the valley floor, the journey reveals awe-inspiring vistas of the towering Mount Ushba, with its iconic twin peaks, and the glistening white pyramid of Mt Tetnuldi, standing 50 meters taller than Mont Blanc. Stretching across the horizon, the majestic 5,000m summits of the Great Caucasus form a dramatic backdrop.

Bird’s-Eye View of Mestia
From this elevated vantage point, the countless Svan towers of Mestia appear as miniature sentinels dotting the landscape. Below, Mestia’s airstrip lies nestled in the valley, and with luck, we might spot a turboprop plane navigating the steep approach from Tbilisi.

Hiking the Ridge to Tsvirmi Village
Following the ridge trail, the hike is gentle yet incredibly scenic. The trail meanders through rolling terrain before descending into Tsvirmi village, home to a 10th-century church and rustic charm that feels frozen in time.

Onward to Iprari Village
A short ride in a private minivan takes us along the roaring Enguri River to Iprari village, perched on a dramatic ledge above the water. Along the way, we stop in Khe village to explore an 11th-century Svan church and a medieval dining hall, each offering a glimpse into Svaneti’s storied past.

Evening in Iprari
The day concludes with a warm welcome at a family-run guesthouse in Iprari, where a hearty dinner awaits. Surrounded by mountain views and rich history, we rest and prepare for the next day’s trekking adventure.

Trekking the Forgotten Shepherd’s Trail to the Bezengi Wall

Distance: 11km
Elevation Gain: 1,450m

Elevation Loss: 1,080m
Duration: 8 hours

The day begins with leaving our tents and sleeping bags in the capable hands of porters or pack horses, who will take a dirt track along the valley floor to set up tonight’s camp. Meanwhile, we embark on an adventurous ascent along the Chkhunderi ridge, tracing a faint, overgrown trail once used by shepherds but long forgotten by time.

Climbing Through Ancient Woodlands
The trail winds through serene woodlands, steeped in history, before emerging into the alpine zone. As we ascend, the landscape transforms into a narrow, grassy ridge offering breathtaking vistas.

The Majestic Bezengi Wall
Before us rises the awe-inspiring Bezengi Wall, a colossal ice face marking the highest section of the Caucasus range and the border between Georgia and Russia. This iconic wall boasts some of the region’s most towering summits, surpassing 5,000 meters, and commands attention with its sheer magnitude and grandeur.

Ridge Trekking and Descent to Camp
We follow the airy ridge as closely as possible to the imposing wall, taking in unparalleled views of the massive glaciated peaks. A steep descent leads us to a tranquil wild campsite nestled by a stream near the glacier’s bedrock.

Evening at Camp
Awaiting us at camp are our porters and set-up tents, along with the promise of a hearty dinner prepared on portable stoves. The serene setting, surrounded by towering peaks and the sound of flowing water, provides the perfect end to a challenging and exhilarating day.

Crossing Khalde Glacier and Trekking the Wild Karetti and Lagem Passes

Distance: 15km
Elevation Gain: 1,100m
Elevation Loss: 1,200m
Duration: 8 hours

Morning with the Porters
Our porters, who camped alongside us overnight, are ready to transport our gear to the next campsite. We set off for another thrilling day, beginning with the Khalde Glacier crossing.

Crossing the Khalde Glacier
Unlike the pristine glaciers often imagined, the Khalde Glacier is a rugged expanse of rubble, ice patches, and meltwater pools. Crampons aren’t needed, but careful footing is essential, as there are only a handful of safe crossing points. The stark beauty of this glacier sets the tone for the adventure ahead.

Trek to Karetti Pass
Leaving the rocky glacier behind, we return to verdant grasslands, trekking towards Karetti Pass, a saddle cutting through the ridge extending from the towering Bezengi Wall. The ascent to the pass rewards us with dramatic vistas of untouched wilderness.

From Karetti Pass to Lagem Pass
Linking Karetti and Lagem passes, the trail takes us along a wild and spectacular ridge, one of the most remote and breathtaking segments of the trek. With every step, the scenery grows more impressive, framed by the grandeur of the Great Caucasus peaks.

Descending to Enguri Valley
From Lagem Pass, we begin a steep but manageable descent along a well-trodden path into the Enguri Valley. Here, our wild campsite awaits, complete with tents already pitched by our porters. To cap off the day, there’s even a chance to enjoy a cold, well-deserved beer at a nearby summer café!

This day’s journey embodies the untamed beauty of Svaneti, offering a true taste of adventure in one of the region’s most remote and awe-inspiring landscapes.

Close Encounters with Mt. Shkhara and Camping by Nuamquam Lake

Distance: 6km
Elevation Gain: 700m
Duration: 5 hours

Approaching Mt. Shkhara
After the intensity of the last two days, today offers a welcome respite with a much lighter trek. We make our way toward Mt. Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak at 5,193m. Following a grassy moraine ridge, we gain a close-up view of this towering giant. Standing beneath its Himalayan-scale mountain face and surrounded by glaciers of unimaginable scale, we’re reminded of the raw, untouched beauty of the Georgian wilderness. This moment is truly one of the highlights of our trek.

Descent and Journey Towards the Source of the Enguri River
We descend back toward our camp and continue hiking alongside our porters. The valley curves right, bringing us closer to the source of the Enguri River, which we encountered earlier when crossing the impressive Enguri Dam.

Camping by Nuamquam Lake
Our day ends beside Nuamquam Lake, a serene and stunning spot, arguably one of the most picturesque lakes in all of Svaneti. The tranquil surroundings make for a peaceful night under the stars, with the hanging glaciers of Mt. Shkhara in the distance, their beauty amplified by the warm hues of the setting sun.

As night falls, we enjoy a delicious meal, reflecting on the day’s awe-inspiring views and anticipating the magic of the night sky.

Trek to Ushguli - A Historic Village Stay

Distance: 10km
Duration: 5 hours
Elevation Gain: 700m up, 950m down

Vakhushti Ridge and Spectacular Views
After a hearty breakfast, we pack up our tents, with the porters carrying them down to the village. Our trek begins with a climb up Vakhushti Ridge, where we reach a high point of 3,153m. From here, we enjoy panoramic views as we trek along the airy ridge, surrounded by majestic mountains. The trail descends gradually, taking us away from the Shkhara Wall, but not without leaving us awe-struck by the breathtaking scenery on both sides.

Arrival in Ushguli - Europe’s Highest Village
In the afternoon, we descend into Ushguli, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Europe’s highest permanent settlements at 2,200m above sea level. Ushguli is a collection of four hamlets—Murkmeli, Chazhashi, Chvibiani, and Zhibiani—nestled in a narrow valley between steep slopes. After three nights of camping, the comforts of a family-run guesthouse in Chazhashi, housed in a genuine 12th-century building, are a welcome treat.

Cultural Immersion with the Film Dede
After dinner, we gather for a special cultural experience. We watch Dede, a strikingly authentic film shot in Ushguli with local, non-professional actors. Directed by Mariam Khatchvani, the film is based on her grandmother’s story and showcases the traditions, struggles, and beauty of this remote community. It has garnered multiple awards, including Best Director at the Karlovy Vary International Film Festival, and is celebrated for its stunning visuals and honest portrayal of life in Svaneti. The film is presented in both Georgian and the rare Svan language, providing a true glimpse into the region’s heritage.

Trek to Latpari Pass

Distance: 12km
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation Gain: 1,400m

Ascend into the Mountains
The day begins in Chazhashi, part of the Ushguli community, where we leave the Enguri River behind and begin our ascent into the mountains. We pass through Murkmeli, with its iconic stone towers, and continue climbing steadily alongside a mountain creek. As we rise higher, we glimpse the ruins of Tamar’s summer castle, while the towering Greater Caucasus peaks of Shkhara, Tetnuldi, Ushba, and even Elbrus make their presence known. The trail ascends to a plateau at 2,600m, offering sweeping views—a perfect spot to take in the surrounding grandeur.

Approaching Gorvashi Pass
The trail continues as we approach Gorvashi Pass (2,972m), where the ridge walk rewards us with some of the most breathtaking vistas in the region. Small alpine lakes adorn the path, with sightlines extending to the Lechkhumi ridge to the south. We follow the undulating ridge, passing through fields of wildflowers as we approach Latpari Pass.

Serene Camp at Latpari Pass
At Latpari Pass, we’re treated to a panoramic view of the Caucasus ridge, which glows in the soft light of the sunset. A tranquil lake nearby and a chapel add to the peaceful atmosphere, making it the perfect spot to set up camp. Our horse-delivered tents ensure a comfortable night under the stars, with the day’s journey winding down in this serene alpine setting.

Rest Day in Ushguli

Morning Descent
After a hearty breakfast, we begin our descent to the main road, a 4-hour trek down a dirt track filled with seemingly infinite switchbacks. The trail eventually leads us to a minivan for a short ride back to Ushguli.

Exploring Ushguli’s History
This well-deserved rest day offers a chance to delve deeper into the rich culture of Ushguli. We visit a family-run ethnographic museum showcasing the region's history, followed by a visit to the 9th-century Lamaria church, where we admire its well-preserved frescoes. Next, we explore a local museum, home to ancient crosses, icons, and goblets—treasures from the past that offer a glimpse into Svaneti’s spiritual heritage.

For a truly immersive experience, we also have the chance to climb one of the iconic Svan towers, which provide a unique perspective on the surrounding landscape and the region’s historical defences.

Celebration Dinner
In the evening, we celebrate the end of our week of trekking with a traditional feast, indulging in piping hot meat pies, a beloved local delicacy that marks the perfect conclusion to our Svaneti adventure.

Elevation gain: 1,000m (summit day)

Mount Kazbek, or Mqinvartsveri in Georgian, is a dormant stratovolcano, historically significant as the site where Prometheus was enchained in ancient Greek mythology. With a towering elevation of 5,047 meters, Kazbek stands as a remarkable challenge for mountaineers seeking their first 5,000m peak.

Kazbek is an excellent choice for those looking to summit a high-altitude mountain without the crowds often associated with more famous peaks like Mount Elbrus. After completing the trek in Svaneti, you'll have already gained valuable altitude acclimatization, significantly increasing your chances of success on the summit day.

The climbing route graded PD, involves roped glacier walking and a 100m icy section with a 35-40 degree incline just before reaching the summit. Depending on conditions, a fixed rope may be used on this section for added security. While climbing Kazbek does not require technical experience, participants should be reasonably fit and healthy. A comprehensive course on safe glacier travel will be provided before the climb, and on summit day, a 1:3 guide-to-client ratio ensures safety and support.

For your comfort, pack horses will carry your climbing gear, leaving you to enjoy the journey up to the base of the mountain. Crampons, ice axes, and down jackets can be rented in Kazbegi village.

Kazbek provides an accessible yet rewarding challenge for those seeking a memorable mountain adventure in Georgia. For more details on costs and availability, feel free to reach out.